For the first time in a long while, I have the urge to knit more than a hat or a cowl. So when the temperatures dipped into the 30's, it seemed like a sign to buy yarn. Sweaters for the girls, that's what this pile will become. Lightweight in Belize for Jane. Simple Cardigan in Iceland for Kate.

I casted on and swatched for gauge. Size 4 needles it is. Tiny, right? And slow going. But the good slow, the one that makes me sit still and work quietly, forgetting about the laundry that needs doing and the sink full of dishes for a few moments. The kind that helps me rest my exhausted mind and lets the muscle memory of knit and purl take over, creating a larger piece of fabric with each stitch. A pick up and put down easily kind of project, perfect for carting around in my purse letting me sneak a few stiches in here and there when time allows between the cooking, the cleaning, the driving that make up my day-to-day. A treat, really.

I sewed for myself again this past weekend.

It's becoming a habit. And, a good one, at that.

This time around I went with one of Liesl Gibson's newly released Liesl & Co. patterns for women: the Everyday Skirt. I loved making this skirt! It was a breeze to sew and with only 5 pattern pieces, it was fast to cut out as well. Liesl does a great job of giving thorough step-by-step instructions with helpful diagrams for anything even the slightest bit tricky. I really like the design of the skirt - the side panels are not gathered so it makes the hips slimmer - WIN! Also, pockets! And these are not on the absolute side so there isn't any added bulk from them either. Fantastic. Also, the waistband has some interfacing in the front which makes it retain its shape even after sitting in it all day.

The back is elasticized which makes this a pull on and off skirt without closures. This allows you to fit it as needed, making it a cinch to get the sizing exactly right. And speaking of fit, the skirt is meant to sit right above the hips. Liesl recommends making the same size as you buy off the rack unless you want it to sit up at your natural waist. In that case, go a size smaller. That is exactly what I did, choosing a M over a L, and I am thrilled with the fit. Also, I didn't add any length like I normally do and think that if I had gone with the larger size, wearing it at my hips, I would have had to shorten it.

The fabric I chose is a Robert Kaufman chambray that I had in my stash. It has great drape and will be a good year-round skirt - I can wear it with flats or boots now, with tights as winter comes on and with sandals in the summer. I'm glad I went with a neutral and versatile fabric this time around, but I think that I will definitely delve into some patterns and prints for the next one.

I also think that those of us that sew for tweens/teens will find this to be a good pattern for their wardrobes as well. In a fun print with a few inches chopped off the length, this pattern is a no-brainer for both of my girls. I am actually trying to get Kate to sew it on her own (with a little guidance if necessary). I think she'd learn a lot (gathering, pockets, waistbands) and get a cute skirt to boot. I'll keep you posted.

Hi! Happy Weeeknd! Gratuitous photos of my paper piecing from earlier this week because I cannot post without some photos....

A couple of things:

- Blair of wise craft fame interviewed me about QuiltEssential over on her blog. I was so happy to share more about my book and to talk a little bit about the writing process. Pop over there to read the interview and for a chance to win a copy of your own.

- Quilt market is in less than a week and I will be there! I'll be signing books at the Stash Books booth on Sunday at 11:00. If you are at market, please stop by and say hello. I'd love to meet you.

- There are just a few bags of smalls scraps left in the shop, so if you want one, grab them before they are gone.

Ok. I think that's it. I've got big sewing plans for the weekend. You?

Do I go with a straight setting?

Or do I set it on point?

I drafted the pattern myself and then paper pieced it. And if you know how much paper piecing and I aren't the best of friends, you understand why it took me a few months to come around to making this thing instead of just thinking about it. I have no idea if a block like this exists out in the world although I imagine there must be something similar. And so what do I call it? Got any ideas for a name?

Also, do I get knee deep in these fabrics and keep going in this direction? Or should I sit with it a bit and see what develops?

Me? I'm leaning towards on point (although it may mean more troubling math), calling it something that has to do with the early October (it feels crisp, but bright here in Kentucky) , and waiting it out (finishing the flying geese first).

What do you think?

When Rae released the pattern for her Ruby Top and Dress, I was on itlike white on rice. I had been wanting to make it from the moment I sawit. Additionally, I've been wanting to make more clothes, to get overthe fear of fitting, to sew more for myself. This seemed like a goodplace to start.

And it was.

I made my first Ruby on a Saturday afternoon two weeks ago. I had taped the pattern together earlier in the week and cut out the pieces on Friday. I used a Tula Pink voile that had been sitting in my stash as the fabric for my "muslin." I figured that it would be better to get a good idea of the fit with a fabric that would drape well and I was willing to sacrifice this voile as I don't wear red that often (I bought it for Jane originally). I reasoned that if it fit well, it would be wearable under a cardigan this fall/winter and on its own next summer.

The sewing part went smoothly and it is a fast and easy top to put together if you have gathered something before. The trickiest part is the bias on the arm hole and neck, but that isn't very difficult if you take your time. And, that my friends, is where I diverged from the written instructions. Instead of applying the bias over the raw edge (like you would on a quilt), I folded it towards the inside on the neck and arm edges and top stitched it down (like in this Cal Patch tutorial). I forgot to add the extra 1/4" that doing the bias in this method requires which made for a slightly smaller bodice. The fit? I made a size large based on my upper bust measurement. And it fits, but with some puckering at the bust line. It's not horrible, especially if I wear an unlined bra, so I will still wear it as a layering piece. Also, it's important to note that I did not have enough length to give it a proper hem, so I used bias tape around the bottom as well. I am long in the torso and almost always have to add length to tops and dresses, but I kind of forgot to do that in the excitement of getting this top cut out. Oops.

After finishing the first top, I immediately set forth on making a second one with a few changes. And when I say immediately, I mean that same afternoon. This fabric came from my stash as well - the yoke was cut out scraps leftover from my Love of Liberty quilt and the body is an Anna Maria Horner Field Study voile. (As an aside, I am completely in love with the color palette of this print. In. Love. And there is no green. Huh.). This time, I cut two front and back yokes, adding 1/4" to the neck and arm edges so I could self-line the yoke using Rae's video. I adore how nice this looks! It was a joy to sew and there weren't as many seams to finish - win! I also added 1/4" to the arm edge on the body pieces so I could fold the bias binding to the inside.

To solve the issue with the tightness/puckering at the bust, I added 1" of width to the front body piece of the size L instead of going up to the XL. I laid the front piece 1/2" in from the fold when I cut it and it worked very well. It fits a whole lot better than my first attempt - full enough, but not too full. I can wear a lined bra which is key with a sheer, light colored fabric like this one. I also added 2" to the length so I could make a proper hem on this version. It hangs much nicer that way. I wore this one out at night on the day I finished it. It seems to have been our last hot, summer-like evening of the season, but I am also excited to wear it under a cardigan in the coming cooler months.

As I look at these photos, I do think that I like the way the neck/arm looks on me in the first version better than in the second. For the next one, I think I will line it without adding the 1/4" on the neck and arm edges, but still adding the width in the front body piece. I would also like to make the dress version. I think it will look super cute belted, with tights and boots.

I'd highly recommend this pattern for any seamstress. Rae does a wonderful job of guiding you through all the steps, making this a good pattern for beginners. If you have more experience sewing garments, you will love how fast and easy this one comes together. I mean, c'mon - how often can you make two tops in one afternoon?

Also...I'm super excited about Josephine. And the Washi extension pack. That Rae is one busy girl.

I love putting fabrics together. On Friday, I pulled this stack for a quilt idea I've had since the middle of the summer. I haven't been able to get it out of my head so I'm going to dive in and see what happens. I am especially excited about this color palette. The Juliana Horner fabrics set the tone and I just built around those prints. Yes, there is a lot of green, but it is also a little out of my comfort zone with the yellow and the acid tones. I wonder it appeals to me so much because I typically don't gravitate towards some of these colors. Something to think about, at least.

I just listed bags of my smallest scraps in the shop. Just like the large scraps, I am offering these in warm colors, cool colors and mixed colors. Each bag of scraps has at least 40 small pieces which are perfect for one of my favorite gifts: scrappy log cabin potholders.

To make these fun potholders you will need:

- A variety small scraps in different lengths, anything over 1" wide will work. For this tutorial, I used a bag of mixed color small scraps from my shop.

- Fabric to frame the log cabin. The amount you need will depend on how big your finished log cabin is. An 1/8" of a yard should be sufficient, but I find that using scraps work well here, too. In fact, I used a very small part of a large bag of white scraps from my shop.

- Two pieces of batting, each 9" square. I use one layer of insulated batting (such as Insul-brite) and one layer of cotton batting, but you can use two layers of cotton or poly/cotton batting as well.

- Sewing machine, walking foot, thread, pins, scissors, knitting needle or chopstick, rotary cutter and ruler

Start by separating your scraps roughly by size. You want to start building your log cabin with the smallest scraps first.

Begin building the log cabin by sewing the scraps around the center piece one at a time, using a 1/4" seam. Trim off excess fabric as necessary. If you like a slightly wonky look, don't square up your edges. Also, you can always cut larger scraps into smaller pieces if you want to.

Once you have completed one ring around the center, add a second ring in the same manner.

For an even scrappier look, I start adding my second ring of pieces in a different spot. The first ring started with the yellow print and went counter clockwise. The second ring was started on the opposite side (the orange and pink print). I think this gives the log cabin a little more movement, but you can piece it however you like.

Once the second ring is finished, add the frame fabric on two opposite sides. The amount of fabric you need will depend on the size of your log cabin. The square should measure 9" with the frame fabric. Take a quick measurement of your block (mine was about 5") and see what you need (I needed at least 2 1/2" on each side). When calculating, don't forget about seam allowances! It is better to err on the larger size and trim the block later.

Next add framing fabric to the two remaining sides and trim the block to 9" square. Note that my log cabin is off center - again, I like that look, but do whatever you desire.

Make the hanging loop: Take a small rectangle of fabric (at least 1.5" wide and 3.5" long) and press it in half, making a crease down the length as shown.

Press the raw edges in so they meet the crease. Fold the strip in half along the crease, enclosing the raw edges and pin closed. Stitch along the edges of both long sides.

Fold the hanging loop in half so that the short ends meet. Place the loop about 1.5" inches in from the side of the front of the potholder. Line up the raw edges with the raw edge of the top front of the potholder and pin in place.

Assemble the pot holder by stacking your pieces on top of each other in the following order: two layers of backing, potholder front right side up, potholder back right side down. Pin around all four sides. Using a walking foot, sew the layers together with a 1/2" seam starting on the bottom edge and finishing 4" from where you started to leave a hole for turning.

Clip the corners and trim the seams to 1/4" except at the opening as shown. Turn the potholder right side out, using a knitting needle or chopstick to help poke out the corners. Press the entire potholder turning the seam allowances at the opening to the inside. Pin the opening shut.

Using a walking foot, stitch around the entire potholder 1/8" from the edge, closing the opening as you sew.

At this point, you can add some quilting to the potholder if you desire. On this one, I free motion quilted a little flower type motif on the log cabin. On others I have made in the past, I have quilted the entire potholder in a grid, made loopy designs from end to end, sewed concentric squares across the entire potholder or just over the log cabin. The options are endless! Of course, you could leave it as is without quilting and it would look just as adorable.

Another idea for a small scrap potholder is to do a improvisationally pieced one like this.  Piece scraps together until you have a 9" square and assemble as above. You can substitute a ribbon for the loop if you like.

Small scrap bags are in the shop - shipping is free!

I wanted to pop in and share this fun craft that Jane and I worked on over the weekend. She had a birthday party for two friends to attend and I suggested that wemake shoelaces for the girls to go along with the gift cards webought them. I used this tutorial by Liesl Gibsonfound on the Lisette blog (she also shows how to make them onCreativebug). They were super straight forward to make, easy and fast. Win, win, win! The aglets (that's the word for the little ends on shoelaces) were made with washi tape and nail polish. In Liesl's tutorial, she used clear polish, but Jane wanted to add a little bling, so we went metallic. Jane asked me to make a pair for her, too. That girl has some goodtaste...she specifically asked if I had any Liberty florals she couldchoose from. Uh, yes, I do.

A couple of notes if you make these:

- 48" is a good length for adult sized Converse low tops, and 54" is what you need for most high tops. For kid sized shoes, it's probably best to measure the lace that comes with the shoe.

- You need to use a lightweight fabric. Quilting cotton is a good option, but so is voile and lawn. Small prints look the best.

- You will have to piece your fabric if you are using traditional quilting cotton (40" to 44" in width). For the pairs we gave as gifts (not shown), I pieced 3 widths of fabric together, did the sewing, and then cut the laces to 48" from the one longer strip. With Jane's Liberty laces, one 54" width trimmed to 48" was sufficient for each lace.

- I found cutting the fabric with my rotary cutter and ruler left me fewer strings to deal with than tearing the fabric did.

- I found it easiest to sew the laces shut when I moved the sewing machine needle all the way to the left and sewed along the right edge of the lace. This placed the shoelace right over the feed dogs and kept it under the presser foot.

- We put 3 coats of nail polish on each tip to make sure that the tape would stay put and to ensure a nice hard finish.

I bet I will be making a lot more shoelaces soon...I'm thinking birthday party favors, stocking stuffers, etc. I think they would also make super cute "ribbon" to tie on a present.