Weekend Sewing with Heather Ross

I have been sewing up a storm and it's all Heather Ross's fault.  Weekend Sewing is a fantastic book.  Not only are there many clothing patterns included, there are lots of small, quick projects, too.  I am completely impressed by Heather's attention to detail in her directions and illustrations.  Additionally, the clothes fit the sizes they say they should.  That makes sewing clothes for myself so much more fun.  I was lucky to have the chance to share my finished projects with Heather and asked her some questions about these designs.

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Erin:  Hi,Heather!  I am so excited that you arehere today.  Your new book, WeekendSewing, is fantastic!   When I saw theproject photos on Melanie Falick’s blog a few months ago, I couldn’t wait toget my hands on it.  Now that it’s beenout for a few weeks, I can’t get my fill of sewing from it.  Immediately, I knew that I wanted to make thesummer blouse.  It looks like a greatbetween-season wardrobe staple or something you would throw on after an entireday at the beach.  What was going throughyour mind when you designed this shirt?

Summer blouse detail

Heather:  I started with a very basic bodice patternwith soft darts and a nice high flattering neckline, which is where you shouldalways start when designing a dress or blouse. I wanted to introduce sewers to an inset sleeve in a way that madesense, and I wanted to make it a slightly shaped. I love the way that vintagetunics from the sixties and seventies are more fitted around the shoulders andchest and upper arm but then have a full, relaxed fit around the waist.Remember the way that Lily Pulitzer dresses and tunics fit? With a high, prettyneckline and and shaping through the chest? Marimekko was the same way, theyboth knew how to get the best shape from crisp woven cottons. It’s a shape thatis so much more flattering than a blouse that is baggy everywhere, but just ascomfortable.

With some addedlength and no sleeves, this pattern will actually make a lovely littlesleeveless shift! I added some photos below of one of my versions of thisproject. I made a little dress out of some of the fabrics from my Mendocinoline, with an appliqued contrasting panel. This is just the summer blouse, butwith armhole facings instead of sleeves and extended to fit me through thehips. This is what I mean about how great a simple bodice is: you can make itinto anything!

Hross tunic

Hross tunic2

Erin:  Thenext project I made were the Pajama Pants for Everyone.  Well, actually, I adjusted the pattern tomake pajama shorts for Jane and Kate.  Ithink having this pattern on hand is going to come in handy.  I can see myself sitting down and making themassembly line style as gifts for my nephews.  Or a whole winter’s worth for the girls.   Are your clothing designs influenced byitems you already own or ones you would like to have or something elseentirely?

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Heather:  I wear a lot of pajamas. In fact, I leftthe house wearing them this evening. Having a dog is such a great fashionaccessory. It really ties the whole haven’t left the house in days looktogether so nicely. I like pajama pants that aren’t all floofy in the front, soI designed these to lie flat. Its as close to wearing real pants as you can getwithout... wearing real pants. How cute that you cut them into shorts! I wouldhighly recommend cutting them into shorts with the pattern pieces on the bias,you would get the cutest little fluttery pj shorts ever, with a lots of drapeycurves around the leg and a nice flat front. An added bonus is the way thatbias cut shorts and pants stretch, even when sewn in woven fabrics. Maybe in anice linen or lawn?

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Erin: One thing I love about your book is that there are so many clothespatterns in it.  I haven’t had muchsuccess sewing garments for myself in the past. No longer!  I think you have me ona selfish sewing roll!  Did you startwriting the book with clothing in mind, or did the projects fall into place asyou went along?

Heather:  I knew from the very beginning that Iwanted Weekend Sewing to be the book that propelled sewers from the “straightlines” stage of tote bags and pillow covers to actual garments. I had a visionof someone completing a dress or blouse and then saying “So THATS how you doit, I thought it was so much more complicated!” I focussed on pieces that didnot require complicated steps or closures and hoped for the best. I also wantedthe projects to be grown up, wearable styles that were meant a real, albeitcasual, lifestyle: Things you would actually make more than once, things youwould wear.

Erin:  Ireally liked the wide straps and square neckline of the trapeze sundress, but Ididn’t think I would wear it as a dress. So I cut 12” off of the bottom and made a blouse.  And I adore it!  It’s sure to be a summer staple for me.   I like that this, and other patterns, can bechanged or adjusted to make them entirely different.  Was that intentional on your part or just ahappy accident?

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Heather:  Completely onpurpose! I love this dress too. I wanted to design a sun dress that felt rightin the city, where summer is oh so sweaty and miserable. I needed it to coveras little as possible while hiding a bra strap. I think the possibilities forthis style are endless. You could make it ankle length and add a really widebelt (If thats your plan, move the pockets down at least six inches) or addtiers of ruffles from the chest down. I also had a second motive: I wanted toshow everybody how easy adding pockets can be!

I should point outthat for those of us who are more curvy, moving those pleats into the center ofthe blouse will slim down the silhouette and create a less dramatic “trapezeshape”.

You look so cute init!

Erin: Thank you!

There are so many patterns for different bags out there, but I reallylike the shape and size of the everyday tote.   I love that it can fold up nice and flat, but still has good style.  Even though I sewed my handles wrong (oops!), the fact that they are folded and then openflat makes them incredibly comfortable.  Wheredid you come up with that idea?

Everyday tote


Everyday tote inside 

Heather:  I should say here that I believe that thereis a typo in this pattern: I think it should call for 1 yard of each fabric,not 1/2 yard. My apologies.

This bag is mypersonal Farmers Market bag. I wanted one that would hold everything from fresheggs to big bags of apples and berries while still allowing for a huge bouquetof flowers to ride on top. And yes, I love how it stuffs into nothingness too,and I can toss it n the washer. I really love how yours looks with thinnerstraps. I like wide comfy straps because I always put too much weight in mybags, but its nice to see that it works both ways. I love what you did with thepocket, using just a little bit of the horses over the floral lining. Thepockets are so key. I am forever losing my phone and my keys inside every bag,so can’t ever skip this step.

Erin:  The pocket is key for me, too!  I also purposely chose the horse fabric because I knew I would be able to spot that dark green easily against the white lining.  So far, it's working great.

Imade the yard sale wrap skirt in an afternoon. I remember having a skirt similar to this when I was a child.  It was one of the most comfortable things Iowned.  My new one is no different.  I think you have a knack for designingpractical yet stylish clothing.

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Heather:  This skirt is basedon a wonderful old wrap skirt that wandered around in my family for abouttwenty years. The wrap skirt, made from printed indian cotton, was such anubiquitous style in the 70’s, remember? I have extremely fond memories ofsomeone, maybe an aunt, holding hers up poolside around my cousin as shechanged into her swimsuit, like a little changing room. I updated the hemlinebecause I can’t stand that “thick calf” length, but otherwise its pretty trueto form. This is, without a doubt, the most wearable style in the book. Itsalso the most versatile, because you can make it as big or as full as you wantby adding more panels. I worked for a long time on the shape of the panels, Iwanted them to create just the right amount of drape so that it would be flatagainst the tummy and hips and then melt into a big swoopy hem. It’s tough todo this without making something that looks like a poodle skirt, but I am happyto say that i think I nailed it here. I would also suggest adding a piece ofinterfacing to the center front waistband, the result will be a nipped-in waistand flat tummy. I’m getting reports that people are having to add an additionalpanel to this style in order for it to fully cover their backsides. Sorry,ladies!

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Erin:  I was happy I had some extra fabric on hand because I did add an extra panel to my skirt, too.  People might want to remember that if they are purchasing fabric for this skirt.

After the success with the wrap skirt, Iwent ahead and made the all weekend sundress. I didn’t have high hopes for it – I just wasn’t sure how if it wouldflatter me or not.  Guess what?  I like it. I still need to add the spaghetti straps, but otherwise it’s ready towear.  I can see myself throwing thisover a swim suit as a glamorous cover-up. I had forgotten how much fun elastic thread is, too.  So cool! A good number of projects in Weekend Sewing use elastic thread.  Why do you like it so much?

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Heather:  I did use it a lot, didn’t I!

The kimono dress and all weekend sundress are great examplesof why I did this. By using stretchy rows of elastic thread to join the bodiceand skirt on both of these styles, I brought in the waist with lovely evengathers so that it would fit the wearer perfectly without requiring a zipper orother closure. I wanted this stuff to fit, and elastic gathers really make thatpossible! Also, I really wanted everyone to see how easy it is to sew withelastic thread, and how it can be employed to make very cool looking, greatfitting garments without a lot of work.

Your rows of elasticized stitching look so even andperfect!!!

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Erin: Thanks - I am really proud of how that dress came together.  Next up for me:  the townbag.  First I need to find the rightpiece of leather and then work up the courage to actually sew with it.  I think that if my success with these otherprojects is any indication, it’ll be a breeze.

Heather:  Looking forward toseeing it! And if you can’t find leather, try using a really heavy velvet forthe town bag. Really unexpected, but really amazing.

Erin:  That’s a great idea – I can just see it in asoft pastel color.  Once again, you’vegot my mind spinning.

Thanks so much, Heather.

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OK - that was so much fun.  Heather and the nice folks at STC Craft are giving away a copy of Weekend Sewing to one lucky reader.  Comment on this post before 12:00 noon EST, Wednesday, March 18th for a chance.  Also, don't forget about the design challenge Heather is having on her blog.

Now I am going to clean up my mess and then take a nap.  Happy St. Patrick's Day!

Hello patchwork

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Just popping in to say hi.  I made a patchwork camera strap as a birthday gift for a friend.  This is the fourth or fifth one I have made in the last few weeks.  I really like playing with color and pattern and forgot how satisfying it is to have a quick and fun project.  I am thinking about sewing up about a dozen more and selling them.  There.  I said it.  I am seriously considering opening a shop.  I'll keep you posted on the details.

I've also been busy getting ready for tomorrow's guest.  As of this morning I have five finished projects from Weekend Sewing to share with you and Heather Ross tomorrow.  If all goes as planned, there will be at least one more item, maybe two.  I could go on and on about how much I like this book.  I'll save my gushing until tomorrow, though.

Happy Monday, friends. See you here tomorrow.

Some Weekend Sewing and Me

I am so off my game.  I normally post in the morning.  I like posting in the morning - it just sets my day up in the right way.  And while I could write this all up and have it published tomorrow morning, it just doesn't seem right.  I guess this is a night posting week.

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So hello.  This is me, earlier today, after I got off my duff and actually finished something.  It was some weekend sewing from, um, a couple of weekends ago.  I got my copy of Heather Ross's new book in the mail right after it came out and this was the project that jumped off the pages for me.  It's a very good book.  There are quite a few garments (really, garments...for me!) that I want to make.    This one, the summer blouse was first.  I had the pattern traced and fabric cut almost immediately.  I sewed it up pretty dang fast, too.  Completely doable in a weekend, if not a day.  It's those finishing details:  slip stitch, sleeve hems and button that always get me.  So today, I pulled it out of the laundry basket that houses unfinished projects and got it done.  And then I wore it.  Out in public (it was 79 degrees here today!) and I still have it on.  I'll call that a success.

I'd love to dish all the details - the sizing, the fabrics, the vintage button and the minor modifications - but you will have to wait.  I know it's totally a tease and completely unfair, but I think you'll like my reasoning.  You see, next week, there will be a guest appearance on the blog.  Yes - the first one ever.  And she's a famous, fabric-designing, book-writing, creative seamstress, illustrator and all-around great writer.  Can you guess who?  I gave it away, didn't I?  Yes, you guessed it:  Heather Ross! 

So, next Tuesday, March 17th is the date.  I'll be here, with Heather, dishing about some other projects from her book.  To entice you further, there is a giveaway planned.  Yay!  Until then, you can find Heather at the other stops on her blog tour.  Click here for the dates and details.  You can also visit Heather's blog, if you haven't already.  Not only does she spin good stories, she has a little design challenge going on.  Fun stuff, if you ask me.

Wow.  I wrote this in record time.  Maybe blogging at night isn't such a bad idea after all!  See you all later.

Words can not do it justice

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I went to Baltimore this weekend.  I was excited when I boarded the plane on Friday morning.  To say it was fun and good is an understatement.  The women I met were incredible, their families friendly and welcoming.  I stayed with Emily, spent time at Molly's and had a visit from Jennifer.  There was lots of talking, great food, cameras clicking, more talking and then talking some more.  When I arrived, it was like meeting pen pals I had known for a long time.  When I departed, I left behind dear friends.  Thank you, silly old blog, for connecting me with them.  I feel lucky and blessed to have these people in my life.

ATC's are in the mail!

The girls' artist trading cards are out the door and in the mail.  We missed the mailing deadline after I realized that the post office does indeed close at noon on Saturday.  Oops.  They went in the mail yesterday and Jane had two arrive in our mailbox for her!

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While doing this project, I found my children have such different approaches to their art.  Jane is detailed and meticulous.  She sat down for long periods of time and drew.  She chose creatures from the Spiderwick Chronicles as her subject matter and used pencil and colored pencil on each one.  She drew 11 cards and from those, chose the best 9 to send (she was in two groups).  There was one that I really liked, but she didn't.  No amount of discussing could convince her to send it so now it's mine.

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Kate, on the other hand, had quick bursts of energy.  She drew what she saw, the flowers sitting around the house:  an orchid, a hyacinth, some daisies, forsythia and alstroemeria.  She finished three cards right away and then for days, she wouldn't even attempt to do the other two.  In the end, she sat down and did them together - right before the deadline.  I cringe to think that she is a procrastinator like her mother.  But then I remember, that sometimes it takes a long time for all those ideas to brew.  Or in Kate's case, maybe she was waiting to see what other flowers I brought home.

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I loved this exercise for my kids.  Blair has said that the small size of the canvas gave her kids confidence in a way that a large piece of paper cannot.  I found the same to be true for my girls.  The smaller they had to draw, the more time they took, the more detailed they were.  If you take a look at the flickr pool, I think you could say the same for these young artists.  I sure hope that those of you who joined the swap, enjoyed it just as much as we did.

Hello, March. I am so glad you are here.

Good morning!

It's March - isn't that wonderful?  I have a feeling that this is going to be a great month.  To start, Emily is hosting a green week starting today.  You all know how I feel about green.  I'll be posting some green here and on flickr, too.

I am very honored and excited to be a guest at habit this month.  Habit spoke to me from the moment I set eyes on it in January.  Molly and Emily have a good thing going on.  I hope you will come visit me there as well.

I've been sewing and knitting and will share some finished projects later this week.  The studio, which is adjacent to our playroom, is expanding a little after a big toy purge and reorganization this weekend.  My hope is that the girls and I will all end up with a more usable space conducive to creativity.  We aren't quite finished yet, but when we are, I'll share that with you, too. I also have a few more surprises up my sleeve including a giveaway (or two!).  Believe me, you won't want to miss it!

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Yes, March is off to a great start, indeed.